Most people call a locksmith once or twice in a lifetime, usually on a bad day. Here is exactly what a normal visit involves, so you know what you are agreeing to and can tell when something is off.
Before the van arrives: have these ready
- Photo ID. Driver's license, state ID, or passport.
- Proof the vehicle is yours. Registration, title, or a current insurance card. Any of the three works.
- The VIN, if you can reach it. It is visible through the windshield on the driver's side, on the door jamb sticker, and printed on your insurance card.
- Every key you own for the car, including ones that have stopped working. On many Toyota, Lexus, Honda and Acura systems, programming erases keys that are not present.
- Written authorization, if the vehicle is registered to someone else, a company, a spouse, a parent.
The ownership check
This happens before any work, every time, and it is not negotiable.
Your photo ID is checked against the name on the vehicle paperwork. If the car is in a company name or a family member's name, written authorization from the registered owner is required, and the person present still needs their own ID.
It can feel like a hoop to jump through when you're standing in the rain next to your own car. But it's what keeps a stranger from calling about your vehicle and getting in, and a locksmith who skips it is one you should not use.
How long things take
| Job | Time on site |
|---|---|
| Car lockout | Usually under 5 minutes |
| Broken key extraction | 15 to 45 minutes |
| Spare key (you have a working key) | 15 to 30 minutes |
| All keys lost, domestic or Asian | 45 to 90 minutes |
| All keys lost, European | 2 to 3 hours |
| Ignition cylinder repair or replacement | 1 to 2 hours |
| ECM / ECU module work | 1 to 3 hours |
What happens during the work
For a lockout, an inflatable wedge creates a few millimeters of clearance in the door frame, and a coated reach tool works the interior lock or handle. Nothing is broken and nothing is drilled. If your vehicle genuinely cannot be opened without damage, you hear that before starting rather than after.
For key work, the blade is cut to your factory key code rather than copied off an existing worn one, then programmed to your vehicle. On request, previously issued keys are erased in the same session.
For module work, expect some trim to come off and go back on. A voltage support supply runs during any write operation, because a dip mid-write can damage a module.
Before you pay
Everything gets tested in front of you. For a key: start the car, shut it down, restart from cold, and cycle every remote function including trunk, panic, and remote start. For a lockout: confirm the door closes, locks, and seals normally.
Payment comes after the work is done and verified. Card, contactless, or cash. No payment upfront, and no deposits for standard work.
Afterwards
You should get a receipt showing the work performed and the vehicle it was performed on. Keep it, it is useful for insurance, and it is what a workmanship warranty is claimed against.
All work carries a 12-month workmanship warranty. If a key or module fails on that workmanship, the return visit and repair are at no charge.
Want this checked on your actual car?
Guides only get you so far. Call Key Squad with your year, make, and model to hear what applies to your vehicle specifically, including when the answer costs you nothing.
